Usually water, light or air rather than disease: Clemson Extension says yellowing is most often caused by overwatering, and Iowa State Extension names low humidity as the most likely cause of brown leaf tips. Tick what you see, answer five quick questions, and the chart lists the likely causes in order, how to confirm each one, and the fix.
Patient chart
Likely causes
Symptoms
yellow lower leaves
Conditions
Just damp · Little and often, or on a set day · Bright, but no direct sun · No changes · Cold months, heating on
1Overwatering: compost staying wetMost likelyAct this week
Yellowing is most often caused by overwatering (Clemson); roots in compost that never dries cannot breathe, and old and new leaves yellow together.
Why it fits: yellow lower leaves; just damp; little and often, or on a set day; cold months, heating on.
How to confirm
Finger test: The compost is still wet a few centimetres down days after watering.
Lift the pot: The pot feels heavy, or water sits in the saucer or decorative pot.
Slip it out of the pot: If it is wilting too, check for brown, soft roots (see root rot).
Fix it
Stop watering until the top few centimetres (about an inch) feel dry, then water thoroughly so it runs out of the bottom.
Empty the saucer or outer pot after it has drained; never let the pot stand in water.
Make sure the pot has a drainage hole; take it out of foil or a pot without holes.
Plants growing with too little light turn pale and stretch for it: long gaps between leaves, thin stems leaning to the window, lower leaves yellowing.
Why it fits: yellow lower leaves; cold months, heating on.
How to confirm
Look at where it stands: Well back from a window, or in a dim room; stems lean towards the light.
Fix it
Move it to a brighter spot; in winter, when sunlight is weaker, move it closer to a south- or west-facing window.
Turn the pot regularly so it does not lean.
Make big changes in light in stages. Existing leggy stems stay spindly, but new growth will be sturdier; prune leggy stems just above a leaf if you like.
Finger test. Push a finger into the compost. If it is very dry a few centimetres down, the plant needs water (RHS); if you have to probe about an inch (2.5 cm) before you feel moisture, it is time to water most plants (Missouri Botanical Garden). Confirms or rules out: Overwatering: compost staying wet; Normal ageing of old leaves.
Lift the pot. A pot of dry compost feels much lighter than one just watered; learn the weight of yours after watering (Missouri Botanical Garden). Confirms or rules out: Overwatering: compost staying wet.
Look at where it stands. How far from the window, whether sun falls on the leaves, and whether a radiator, heater vent, outside door or cold glass is close by (RHS, Missouri Botanical Garden). Confirms or rules out: Normal ageing of old leaves; Hungry plant: short of nitrogen; Too little light.
Think back. Was it repotted, moved, bought or brought in recently? When was it last fed? Tap water or rainwater? Confirms or rules out: Pot-bound: roots fill the pot; Hungry plant: short of nitrogen.
Slip it out of the pot. Hold the plant, turn the pot over and tap the rim on a table edge (NC State). Healthy roots are white or light-coloured and firm; rotted roots are brown or black and soft, and may smell (UC IPM, Maryland Extension, NC State). Confirms or rules out: Overwatering: compost staying wet; Pot-bound: roots fill the pot.
When to give up and take a cutting
If most of the roots are dark, soft and dead, or the stem has rotted at soil level, the plant is better discarded than nursed (Clemson, UC IPM). Before it goes, take stem cuttings from healthy growth only, firm and free of pests and disease, and root them in fresh, sterile potting mix in a clean pot (Maryland Extension, RHS, Clemson).
Each symptom points to a handful of causes, and the conditions you pick make some of them more or less likely. Yellow lower leaves in compost that never dries, for example, point to overwatering; the same leaves on a plant that wilts between waterings point to drought or a pot full of roots. The checker adds up those clues and shows up to five causes, most likely first.
Every cause carries a triage tag. Watch and adjust (green) means a change of routine will do. Act this week (amber) means the plant is losing ground. Act today (red) is for root rot, stem rot and spider mites, which spread or kill quickly. Under each cause you get the checks that confirm it, the fix step by step, and links to the extension or botanic-garden page it comes from. It is a starting point for your own checks, not a verdict.
Rule causes out in this order
Start with the checks that cost nothing and disturb nothing, and leave the roots till last.
The four checks, quickest first: feel the compost, judge the pot’s weight, look under the leaves with a magnifier, and only then slide the plant out to see its roots.
Finger test. Push a finger into the compost. The RHS says to water when it is very dry a few centimetres down; Missouri Botanical Garden says that if you have to probe about an inch (2.5 cm) before you feel moisture, it is time to water most plants. Wet after several days means too much water or poor drainage.
Lift the pot. Dry compost is much lighter than wet. Learning the weight of your pot just after watering makes this quick (Missouri Botanical Garden).
Look under the leaves. Pests sit on the undersides, in leaf joints and on new growth, and a 10× magnifying lens makes small ones far easier to see (Clemson). Look at the compost and pot rim too: a hard white crust is fertiliser salt; soft fuzz is mould on wet compost.
Check the roots. Hold the plant, turn the pot over and tap the rim on a table edge (NC State). Healthy roots are white or light-coloured and firm; rotted roots are brown or black, soft and may smell (UC IPM, Maryland Extension).
A worked example: yellow lower leaves, damp soil
The chart above starts with a common winter case: a few lower leaves turning yellow, compost still damp, watered little and often, bright light, nothing moved, heating on. Overwatering comes out on top because it fits every answer: damp compost, frequent watering and the slow growth of winter all point the same way. Normal ageing comes next, because the RHS says the odd lower leaf on a mature plant yellows and falls naturally.
To tell them apart, do the finger test over the next few days. If the compost stays wet and more leaves yellow, cut back: water only when the top few centimetres are dry, empty the saucer, and water less until spring, since plants need less water and fertiliser in winter (NC State). If the compost dries normally and only one old leaf at a time goes, it is just age.
Common mistakes
Watering a wilting plant that is already wet. Overwatered roots rot and stop taking up water, so the plant wilts and looks thirsty. Missouri Botanical Garden calls another watering at that point the death knell. Feel the compost first.
Watering on a set day. Both the RHS and University of Maryland Extension advise checking the moisture and watering only when the plant needs it.
Potting into a much bigger pot. The extra compost stays wet, and the RHS says the yellowing and leaf fall that follow are often mistaken for thirst. Go up one size, about 5 cm (2 in) wider (Missouri Botanical Garden).
Misting for humidity. NC State finds misting raises humidity only briefly; grouping plants, pebble trays or a humidifier work better.
Homemade sprays. UC IPM does not recommend homemade pesticides, dish-soap recipes included. Use products labelled for indoor plants and follow the label.
Why problems show up in November and December
Winter light is weaker and shorter, so houseplants grow less and need less water and feed (NC State); keeping summer watering habits is the usual route to soggy compost. Heating dries the air, and NC State notes heated homes can sit at 10 to 15% relative humidity, which browns leaf tips and suits spider mites. Cold glass is the other hazard: keep leaves off winter window panes, move plants about 15 cm (6 in) into the room, and do not shut windowsill plants behind curtains on frosty nights (Missouri Botanical Garden, NC State, RHS). Bringing a new plant home in the cold? Wrap it for the journey.
General information from the extension and botanic-garden pages listed below, not professional advice. If a pet or child may have eaten part of a plant, see plants toxic to cats and dogs for poison helpline numbers.
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Why are my plant’s leaves turning yellow and brown?
Yellow leaves that then turn brown and drop usually come back to watering. Clemson Extension says yellowing is most often caused by overwatering, while the RHS notes that a plant left too dry yellows its lower leaves first, with crisp brown edges. The finger test tells you which.
How do I know if I am overwatering my plant?
The compost stays wet a few centimetres down for days, the pot feels heavy, water sits in the saucer, and old and new leaves yellow together. If it also wilts while wet, check the roots for brown, soft rot.
Can a plant recover from root rot?
If only some roots are rotten, cut them off and repot in fresh mix in a pot with drainage holes. If most roots are dark, soft and dead, Clemson advises discarding the plant; take cuttings from healthy stems first.
Should I cut off yellow or brown leaves?
Yes, once a yellow leaf comes away easily. For brown tips, NC State suggests trimming off the dead part but leaving a thin brown edge, rather than cutting into green tissue. Trimming is cosmetic: fix the cause or new tips will brown.
Does the checker store or send my answers?
No. It runs entirely in your browser and nothing you tick is sent anywhere. The site counts page views with cookie-free Cloudflare Web Analytics, which never sees your answers.
Sources
Every cause, check and fix comes from these pages, all opened and checked on 3 November 2026.